Your Body Almanac

Rock climbing

Hanging your body weight from your fingertips, often above the ground.

Climbing builds grip, upper-body strength and problem-solving skill. It also asks small finger tendons and the shoulder to hold your whole body weight, often in awkward positions. Falls, even short ones in bouldering, are the other main risk.

01

Finger pulley injuries

Small bands called pulleys hold the finger tendons against the bone. Crimping on small holds, or a sudden load when a foot slips, can strain or tear them, often with a pop and pain at the base of a finger.

SourcesAnnular ligament (pulley) injuries in rock climbers, a systematic review (PMC)Finger injuries and disorders (MedlinePlus)
Build up training graduallyWeeklyRaise how often, how long and how hard you train by no more than about 10% a week. Do tendon glides for your handsDailyMove your fingers through five positions to help the tendons slide smoothly through the wrist. Warm up before you exerciseAs neededSpend about 5 minutes moving gently before activity to get your muscles and heart ready.
02

Shoulder strain

Hanging, pulling and reaching for distant holds load the rotator cuff and the front of the shoulder. Overhanging routes and dynamic moves are the hardest on it.

SourcesShoulder impingement and rotator cuff tendinitis (OrthoInfo, AAOS)Rotator cuff and shoulder conditioning program (OrthoInfo, AAOS)
Do band pull-apartsWeeklyStretch a resistance band across your chest to strengthen the upper-back muscles that pull your shoulders back. Do wall angelsDailySlide your arms up and down a wall to train the muscles that hold your shoulders and upper back upright. Stretch your chest in a doorwayDailyOpen up chest and shoulder muscles that tighten from hunching over desks, steering wheels and phones.
04

Falls onto ankles and wrists

Bouldering falls and missed landings commonly sprain or break ankles. Reaching back with an outstretched hand can break a wrist. Roped climbing falls are rarer but can cause head injuries.

SourcesAnkle fractures (OrthoInfo, AAOS)Safety guidelines for helmets (CDC HEADS UP)
Wear the right protective gearAs neededPut on a well-fitted helmet and the pads, guards or mouthguard your sport calls for, every time. Practice standing on one legDailyA daily balance drill that trains your ankles, hips and reflexes.

When to see a professional

See a doctor or hand specialist for a pop in a finger followed by pain and swelling, or a finger tendon that bows away from the bone when you grip. Get care for an ankle or wrist you can't use after a fall, and emergency care for any head injury with confusion or vomiting.